Kutná Hora Ossuary

THE reason to go to Kutná Hora, really, is to visit the ossuary.

As a result of plagues that swept through the area and the wars of religion that were going on in the 15th century, the Cistercian monks found themselves with a bunch of extra bodies lying around and (apparently) a hearty enthusiasm for recycling.

The crypt underneath this small and modest looking church is decorated with the bones of about 40,000 people.


The purpose of the decoration, at least originally, was to stand as a reminder of human mortality.  However, it has been noted that some of the more recent decorations are more decorative than is strictly necessary.  I got an English language guide when I went into the crypt and it contained what almost appeared to be a Gospel message (allowing for some translating discrepancies) which makes sense a little, as I believe this is still run by the church.  The last paragraph of the guide says:

"It's guessed the Ossuary is a common grave of about 40,000 people.  This work reminds us of the fact and the worth of eternity.  God has concluded a covenant that put us under an obligation of responsibility towards God and our neighbors.  The observance of the covenant will be appreciated when we die."


This trip did seem to be a little grim, altogether.  Everywhere I turned around, there were reminders of human mortality and I was about to develop a little complex.  All of the Czech Republic was in mourning for Vaclav Havel.  There was even a memorial in Kutná Hora.  And then, for my devotions the same night I got back from  Kutná Hora, I read Psalm 103 which reads in pertinant part (verses 15 and 16) "As for man, his days are as grass: as a flower of the field, so he flourisheth.  For the wind passeth over it, and it is gone; and the place thereof shall know it no more."

Just to round it off, I thought I would include Psalm 90:10, for good measure: "The days of our years are threescore years and ten; and if by reason of strength they be fourscore years, yet is their strength labour and sorrow; for it is soon cut off, and we fly away."

This chandelier includes every bone in the human body at least once.

There were several rooms around the perimeter of the crypt which were literally stuffed with bones.  
You were not supposed to reach through and touch the bones.

However, people were apparently in the habit of using one of the rooms as a kind of wishing well,
and there were loads of coins that had been thrown in amongst the skulls.

In the center of the crypt, there were pillars set up, decorated with skulls, other bones, cupids,
and, apparently, occasionally  decorated with candles.
Which I bet makes the whole place incredibly creepy.  

If you notice the skulls, some of the upper jaws look very intact while others, like the bottom skull in  this picture, have chunks missing at the places where the teeth would have been.  It is possible that this is post mortem damage but I wonder if those are the results of abscesses and tooth decay.  If that is the case, I think I am pretty grateful for Colgate.

There were also a couple of lit display cases.  They had a label that read as follows:
"The skulls of warriors from the Hussite wars, 1421-1424.
"Fatal injuries caused by swords, flails, maces, and arrows.
"Scientific studies have proven survival of some injuries.  (You can notice an apparent process of healing.)"

There was a lot of atmosphere in the crypt.  Also, it was really cold down there.  You could see your breath.  But perhaps the most surprising thing was that the decorating didn't end in the 15th century.  This, really, just seems to be a little too recent.

I found a website which has a lot of information about Kutná Hora which includes a lot of pictures that turned out better than mine did.  If you click here, you can look at some of those plus get a little more information about the ossuary.