Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Best. Book Club. Ever.

Jael and I went to Copenhagen because of a book we read ages ago.  It wasn't a great classic or even a wonderful/gruesomely sad fairy tale like The Little Mermaid (Disney really did not stick to the spirit of that story).  It was a mystery story by Elizabeth Peters, set in Copenhagen and other bits of Denmark called The Copenhagen Connection.  It involves a writer with big teeth, a big nose, and a fanciful sense of style (who greatly resembles Elizabeth Peters herself) who is in pursuit of a story about the 14th/15th century queen of Denmark (and later of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden), Margaret I.  In the meantime, she, her son, and her assistant run into all kinds of plots to uncover ancient treasure.  They defeat the bad guys, recover the treasure, and the kids get married.  It was a really good story.

I probably first read the book ten or fifteen years ago and I re-read it last year, when I knew for sure that I was coming to Europe, and that was when I decided for sure that I needed to see bits of Denmark.  (Jael read the book as well, five or six years ago.  She didn't reread it though.  She had "work" and "a husband" and "buying a new house" and "moving" which got in the way of her book club duties.)  The book has wonderful descriptions of the Gardens at Tivoli, the massive pedestrian market at Strøget, and the historical mystery that is Margaret I.  Also, somewhere back at the end of the 19th century, Hans Hanssen (or someone of like name) sailed to America from Copenhagen and ended up getting roped into the Schultz family tree.  Plus, I have always liked Shakespeare's Hamlet (Kenneth Branagh did a very nice, and very thorough, film of it) and so that seemed to fit awfully well.

Jael flew into Amsterdam Friday afternoon and we flew into Copenhagen on Saturday afternoon.  Originally we had planned a flight which would have gotten into Copenhagen in the morning but, when we bought the tickets, it ended up being about $100 cheaper to fly in four hours later and it also meant we didn't have to leave my apartment at 5am to make the flight, so I think we were both pretty happy with that arrangement.  Another huge benefit was that we arrived just at check-in time at the hotel which meant we could dump our back-packs and just carry the important things around town with us.  It makes quite a difference carrying that much less stuff.  

The pink line below shows our approximate flight path.  It was nice and clear when we were coming in so we saw what I am almost certain was Sweden.  I felt very cosmopolitan and very international after that.

We did some touring around Copenhagen on Saturday afternoon and evening.  Then, Sunday morning, we went to church in Copenhagen and, immediately afterwards, headed north to Helsingør (about an hour and a half by train, from Copenhagen) for the afternoon and early evening.  Monday, we spent most of the day to the west, at Roskilde (about half an hour from Copenhagen by train), then headed back to Copenhagen, ran around a bit, and then flew back to Rotterdam that evening.  It was a pretty fun trip, if somewhat colder and shorter than we had anticipated but the Danes know good food, good convenience stores, and good pastries and I figure you can't go wrong with that.

Monday, April 9, 2012

St. Alban's Anglican Church (1 April 2012)

Last week, on Palm Sunday, Jael and I were in Copenhagen, Denmark.  We decided to go to St. Alban's Anglican Church because it is one of the few English language churches in Copenhagen and it was also easily accessible by public transport.

Somehow, I managed to only get one picture of the church.  I blame it all on Jael.  She was a very bad influence, photography-wise, because she kept interrupting my picture-taking by saying things like  "Now we're late for church!" and "If you don't hurry up, we're going to miss our train.  Again."

She was a real kill-joy to have along.


St. Alban's was built in 1887 and is right on the Baltic Sea.  It is just a few hundred yards from the statue of the Little Mermaid, from Hans Christian Andersen's famous story.  I never actually saw the statute, though, if you can believe it.  We missed it because of Jael's insistence that we get to church in a timely fashion.  I mean, really!


St. Alban's is part of the Diocese of Europe for the Anglican Church.  It is officially under the authority of the English Crown.  In fact, the week before Jael and I went, Prince Charles and his wife visited the church, officially, in honor of the Queen's Diamond Jubilee.  (You can see the pictures here.  The official church website is here.  And you can read a little history of the church here.)

We went on April 1st, which was Palm Sunday.  Apparently, the church has a tradition, on this holiday, of having all of the congregants go outside the building to sing the first hymn, and do the first prayer, before proceeding back into the church while waving palm fronds.  Since the temperature was about 35 degrees and it was very windy, this ended up being kind of inconvenient.

The church service, itself, ran a little differently than the Anglican service I attended when I was in Prague over Christmas.  For one thing, in Prague, there were some American accents and lots of foreign accents (such as French folks who apparently found it easier to follow an English language service than a Czech one).  In Copenhagen, perhaps because of its proximity to England and the amount of business done between the two nations, there was a much larger crowd (I didn't get an accurate count because there was a separate little wing with seating that I didn't get a chance to count but I would guess that there were 50 or more people in attendance) and everyone I heard had one of several regional English accents.

The service also seemed much more fancy and "high-churchey".  The Rev. Ricky, in Prague, seemed pretty easy-going, his wife played the organ, and that was about as much as went on.  In Copenhagen, there were a lot more folks to keep track of.  There were what I assume are the Anglican equivalent of alter boys, in addition to the choir.  There was the guy in charge of the service (in the same role, I think, as Rev. Ricky), wearing the white robes with the collar and fancy tie-thing--I looked it up on the website and he (Jonathan Lloyd) is an Archdeacon, and also a Chaplain, which jobs I did not know could go together.  Though, to be fair, I am not that up on my Anglican polity.  There was also an Assistant Priest who was wearing the white robe over the black robes.  When we were leaving, Jael said "He has such floppy English hair!"  (and he totally did--he reminded me of a 1990s Hugh Grant).  However, he is, apparently, from the Scottish Episcopal Church and his name is Fr Gottfried Grunewald, which doesn't sound particularly English, so he must have gotten the hair by osmosis.  Then, there was a lady who was dressed in blue robes with a fancy hood down the back.  She helped with passing the wine around during communion (they had a communal cup and she was in charge of wiping the rim between folks) and perhaps she was a trainee of some kind?  I have never seen robes like that in the few Anglican services I have been to.  She might have been the Parish Deacon (perhaps they serve different roles there).  There was, additionally, according to the order of worship, a president.  I don't know what office that is and couldn't find an explanation on the internet but, from what I could tell, she was the one who was actually broke the bread and blessed the communion table. According to the website, she is a "Reverend Canon" (another office with which I am unfamiliar) and is Diocesan Director of Training.  Everyone bowed toward the altar, when passing in front of it, which might be an Anglican thing, although I had always equated it more withe the Roman Catholic church.  A few people in the congregation crossed themselves while the blessings on the elements were being read but they may have actually been Catholics who just wanted to go to an English service and I forgot to notice how many fingers they used to do it.

There wasn't a sermon.  Instead, they had a dramatic reading of Mark's account of the Passion of Christ.  All of the people doing the reading had very plummy English accents which was kind of fun.  (The church website lists a "Licensed Reader" as a part of their Ministry Team).  I did keep the church bulletin as it has a devotional on the front page.  It is a devotional produced by the official Anglican publishing house.  To give you a little taste, I will just include a quote from the bulletin, which is entitled "The Glory of the Cross":
"This week, we see what it is to be God. . . God does not wash his hands of creation, disclaiming responsibility.  And he does not bring it to an abrupt end and start again with something less creative, less risky.  Instead, God redefines everything it is to be God; he comes to live in the world that he and we have made between us, and to die the death that such a world entails.  And in this, he shows his power.  This is God, taking the blame -- although most of it belongs to us, God shoulders it, as the one who allowed this possibility in the first place. 
"This is what we choose.  We choose a world in which we will have control, even over God, even if that means death.  And God, who gave us that power of choice, accepts what he has done.  He bows to our power."
Jael and I did some quiet gasping.

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Jael and Denmark

Jael and I have returned safely from Denmark.

I quoted Shakespeare at Elsinore but Jael claims not to have heard me.  "You mumble a lot" she said.  Does anyone else want to come visit me instead?  All you have to do is listen when I quote Elizabethan playwrights at culturally and historically relevant moments.

We survived a lot of cold.  It snowed on Sunday and on Monday and there was rain on Saturday, even though it was around 33 degrees.  Plus, there was a lot of wind.  Jael felt pretty chilly.  This is how she looked most of the trip.  This is the spiffy scarf she bought in Rotterdam before we left.